A conversation with … Kenichi Ohashi MW
“Japanese consumers have developed a much more international palate in the last ten years and enjoy wines from a variety of origins.”
A leading expert in wines and sakes based in Tokyo, Japan, Kenichi Ohashi MW is a consultant, manager of Yamjin Co (a store specializing in sake located in Tochigi prefecture), development manager, journalist, international judge, Master of Sake and the first Japanese graduate of the Master of Wine exam in 2015. He draws on his extensive experience to share his impressions on changes in the wine and spirits market in his home country.
Gabrielle Vizzavona: How would you describe the level of wine education/knowledge among Japanese consumers?
Kenichi Ohashi MW: Wine is highly regarded as a product and seen as aspirational and prestigious because of its long history and traditions. It is, however, very much a treat for special occasions, and not a commodity or an everyday drink for most Japanese consumers. Although wine consumption in big cities such as Tokyo tops 8 litres per person and per year, more than half of that of the UK, annual consumption overall is only 3 L per person and per year in Japan which puts things into perspective compared to Western markets where wine is everyone’s favourite alcoholic drink.
G.V: How do Japanese consumers learn about wine?
K.O: We have wine schools in Japan, and this is where most interested people will gain their knowledge. For non-professionals, there are many opportunities to attend local wine schools which teach people how to enjoy wine and explain wine regulations and the many different wine styles. The British Wine and Spirits Education Trust operates in Japan and also offers sake qualifications. Many other Japanese providers are also offering courses. However, most people seeking wine qualifications have a professional agenda and the Japan Sommelier Association’s “Wine Expert” certification is probably the most popular here.
G.V: How has Japanese consumers’ taste for wine evolved over the past 10 years?
K.O: French and Italian wines used to dominate the market in the same way as they did in Western countries. They are still highly regarded but Japanese consumers have developed a much more international palate in the last ten years and enjoy wines from a variety of origins. French and Italian wines still dominate in the on-trade whereas Chilean wines are very successful in the off-trade.
G.V: How do you explain the success of Burgundy and Champagne?
K.O: Burgundy and Champagne are symbols of wealth because of their high prices. Wealthy consumers, especially men, really enjoy these expensive wines as it gives them kudos with their peers. In addition to this, Burgundy wines and Champagne are a good match for Japanese cuisine because of their high acidity. I mentioned in my MW research paper in 2015 that Champagne and Burgundy wines feature very often on the wine lists of premium sushi restaurants in Tokyo. Also, the Burgundian hierarchy of vineyards with its long history resonates with Japanese values: monasteries, monopoles… Another explanation is that, for Burgundy, the existence of complicated and fragmented estates with tiny vineyards gives their fans the opportunity to demonstrate their expertise and knowledge to their drinking partners. It is a form of showing off! For Champagne, the prestige of the Grandes Marques and their strong branded personalities are again a way of demonstrating how knowledgeable and wealthy their drinkers must be to enjoy them often, especially in big cities such as Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka. Interestingly, the top clients for prestige Champagne are high-end bars for ladies. For wealthy men, it is ideal to be able to enjoy such gorgeous Champagne with beautiful ladies as a symbol of their wealth.
G.V: Are certifications (e.g. organic) important for the Japanese consumer? If so, which ones?
K.O: Certifications are increasingly important for Japanese consumers and will become even more important in the future. Demeter and Ecocert are the best known, in my opinion. Euroleaf and Terra Vitis are not far behind.
G.V: Which consumption habits have changed since Covid?
K.O: The Japanese on-trade has shrunk, obviously, as in other markets. A lot of outlets have closed. Also, hotels with large function rooms have suffered hugely during the pandemic. We now tend to drink more wine at home instead of in bars and restaurants. Another unfortunate consequence of the pandemic is that prices have risen and are now higher than ever without much chance of getting more affordable soon. Supermarket sales are better than ever, though.
G.V: Which are the most popular imported wines in Japan right now?
K.O: French and Chilean are the most popular, French wines because of their long history, Chile because of strong trading links between our two countries. For French wines, there is a lot of interest in natural wines, low intervention wines and traditional wines. Chile tends to provide excellent entry-level wines.
G.V: How fast are sales of locally produced wines growing? Is koshu gaining market shares domestically and abroad? What about sake?
K.O: The number of Japanese wineries has increased from 200 to 431 in the last ten years. They are, however, mostly small operations—typically less than 1 ha for each producer—which means volumes have not increased that much. Koshu is, of course, the most planted vinifera in Japan even though it is a hybrid.
G.V: What about sake?
K.O: Sake culture is ‘diluted’ because our consumption level is dropping year after year. Sake has become much more international, and exports are doing well. Production is decreasing though as the number of producers is decreasing. This is a similar situation to that of French wine in France where French people drink less wine than they used to.
G.V: What are the next big trends for wine in Japan?
K.O: It is a very difficult question. I think Japanese quality wines have a huge card to play. Also, demonstrably sustainable wines will grow in popularity. New regions are gaining ground as well as Santorini Assyrtiko, Georgian orange wines or high altitude wines from various countries.
G.V: What are the most popular imported spirits in Japan currently?
K.O: Whisky is by far the most popular imported spirit. The reason for that is that our own Japanese whiskies have become very popular worldwide: whiskies from Suntory and Nikka (Taketsuru) have been recognized in international competitions as some of the best whiskies in the world and substantial volumes are now being exported. This means there is less volume available for Japanese consumers who then turn to imported whiskies.
G.V: What about the next big trends for spirits in Japan?
K.O: I am not a spirit expert but I would say craft gins and quality craft whiskies, anything that can demonstrate a quality and “craft” story behind the label.
